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Dec 10, 2004
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Those who have been following my various modeling articles here at the Conrail Cyclopedia probably know that I do not consider myself an advanced modeler along the lines of Jim Six and authors in such magazines as Model Railroading and RailModel Journal. I am more like the garden variety modeler: average skills with little time to devote to actually sitting down and putting together a sophisticated kit or time-consuming kitbash. (Though I do take time out to write this website.) Nor do I have tons of money to spend on the latest and greatest freight car kits, which are begining to exceed the $20 mark.So how do I choose which freight cars to model to fit my limited modeling time and budget? Usually, I first check the modeling press to see what articles that they have printed relating to Conrail. The result of this research has become the expansive Modeling section. I also check my photos, then usually smack myself for not taking more photos of the common equipment! (We railfans always learn the hard way, don't we?) I also pour over manufacturer catalogs, websites, and so on.
But more often than not, I find myself picking up kits on sale at a local train meet, coming home, then tossing them in the closet for six months to two years until I finally decide to build them. Does this sound familiar to anyone?
One such kit that I picked up over two years ago at a local swap meet only to have it weigh down a closet shelf was a Walthers 50' Fruit Growers Express Insulated Boxcar. Of course it wasn't predecorated for Conrail, but I knew the green BC Rail paint would easily strip off. I also knew the kit would be a close match for Conrail's X73 class of insulated boxcars, a common class found in nearly every general merchandise train. This would be an easy modeling project, just what I needed.
But modeling an accurate X73 hadn't always been easy. Until Walthers released their version of the Fruit Growers Express 50' insulated boxcar, we had to suffer with the Details West #700 kit, which has been on the market since at least 1985. More accurate and cheaper than the Details West version, the Walthers kit clearly is the one to choose. With only a few easy modifications and additional details, this stock kit will become an excellent X73 model for any layout. So let's get to it.
First I'd like to take a few moments to tell you why the Walthers model is the one to chose for this project. As mentioned on the X73 Prototype page, the Walthers model scales out to the proper height from the rail for a Plate C boxcar, unlike the Details West model, which rides too low due to a manufacturing error. The Walthers model also has the proper two-part r4/4 late Improved Dreadnaught ends with a beveled, rectangular top rib. The kit also has the proper double rivet pattern at the side sheet seams, though the rivits are a bit overscale. Nearly everything about this car is correct for a Conrail X73, except for a few discrepencies and additional details.
Back when I wrote this in 2002, it looked as if no X73 FGE boxcar had an undersill stirrup near the center of the car, but I was mistaken. Doug Brown corrected me back in 2003, but I lost the info until now. It appears that some cars did and some did not. It looks like they came off in time. If you want to model a later car, you can chisel off the stirrup on the Walther's car. You could also chisel off the remaining stirrups, replacing them with Details West #229-6417 Straight Bottom Mount Freight Car Stirrups. These parts include the bolt details found on the prototype.
I have chosen to leave the molded on ladders in place, even though they are not up to current modeling standards. These are my only real complaint with the Walthers model. But they are too time consuming for me to replace.
Next, turn the car on its end and chisel off the molded on coupler platforms. Do not add any details to the end until later. When you have both platforms removed and have sanded the ribs smooth, turn the car over on its roof. Now remove the molded on Walthers coupler pockets. All PC, EL, and CR X73 insulated boxcars were equipped with cushioned underframes and coupler pockets, which extended farther than those on the model.
When you have finished removing both pockets, replace them with the prototypically accurate Details West #235-1009 Caboose & Freight Car Cushion Coupler Pockets. When you are done working on the couplers, flip the car right-side up. Now it's time to work on the coupler platforms.
As I mentioned earlier, the Walthers coupler platforms are nothing more than hunks of plastic protruding from the car end. Since you have chiseled them off in the name of prototypical accuracy and good taste, now is the time to replace them with a pair of Plano #565-128 Slotted Partial Car Width Coupler Platforms. If you use a different pattern, simply justify your choice by saying that Holidaysburg replaced the original platforms with whatever was on hand--which is usually how they operated anyway!
I would like to replace Walthers brake wheel, but I am not sure if there is a correct detail part available. I would also like to add some brake chain extending from the wheel down to the brake rigging, but until I lean of a better wheel, I will skip this step as well. I have also decided not to add any cut levers or air hoses to my models. I feel such parts are too fragile for my lifestyle. Brake rigging might also be another detail you want to consider adding, especially due to the shallow sideframe. I might add this in the future. In the meantime, if you are modeling one of the oxide red boxcars, paint the brake rigging to match the body color.
I have also noticed that the plug door on Conrail's X73's differs from the Walthers model. The model has large rivits along the door bracing, whereas the prototype cars do not. These could be removed with a chisel blade, though it would be delicate work.
One other detail you might want to consider is that some X73 boxcars have additional, small reinforcement plates along the roofline. These plates extend down to about the second rivet from the top and are located within the rivet lines. I originally considered using very thin sheet styrene to model these plates, but I think that I could use an ultra-fine tip marker represent them. If you look at the photos carefully, you will notice the plates are not even.
Also keep in mind that if you are modeling one of the Erie Lackawanna cars, be sure to add the Hennessey power door opener on each side of the car. Jim Eager recommends using Details Associate kit #6216 or a spare brake wheel and 1x4 strip styrene.
If you are painting an undecorated model, now is the time for that step. Use your favorite shade of paint to match a particular car. Since Conrail schemes had many variations, check individual photos for decal information.
Finally, add your favorite brand of coupler, replace the Walthers wheels with your favorite 33" metal wheels, attach the trucks, and you are ready to roll. You will like the look of this boxcar so much that you will want to add two, three, even five more to your layout.
As I learn more information from my research or other modelers' experiences, these instructions will updated.
Photos for personal use only. All rights reserved by original owner of image.
Reproduction or redistribution in any form without express written permission is prohibited.