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Jan 31, 2002
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Probably long after the Norfolk Southern and CSX takeover of Conrail, the X72 will still be plying the rails under its many Conrail paint scheme variations. It's just that common a boxcar. Fortunately for HO modelers, creating an accurate model couldn't be easier.For the past several years, Jim Six's X72 articles in the September 1988 issue of Mainline Modeler and the September 1996 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman have set the standard for modeling and weathering this boxcar. If you are able to track them down for a reasonable price, I suggest checking them at least for Jim's weathering techniques and the additional prototype photos.
Jim used shell of an old, inexpensive Life-Like X72 boxcar as the basis for his model. Unfortunately, this model is no longer in production. However, in late 1998 Life-Like released new versions of this car in their Proto1000 line. For a suggested retail of $12 you now get what Life-Like calls an "improved" underframe--primarily they improved the coupler pockets--Proto2000 trucks and metal wheels, and magnetic knuckle couplers. Unfortunately, Life-Like didn't bother to upgrade the tooling on the model, so you still get the old shell. Still, the Proto1000 is a good model and will make a good X72.
I will assume in this article that you will be stripping the paint from an existing model instead of using an predecorated model. So far, the only predecorated model out there for our purposes is a Penn Central version. While the lettering is sharp, the jade green paint is pale compared to the prototype. Some modelers I've talked to think the jade green looks okay if you're doing a faded car that has seen several years of service, though I tend to disagree. The jade just doesn't look right no matter what you do to it. If you cannot paint your own models, then you will have to stick with the predecorated model. Just make sure to add some nice dents, rust, and grime to make it look like a worn car to match the faded jade. Using a predecorated model will also limit the amount of detailing you'll be able to do, so plan accordingly. As of this writing, there still aren't any Microscale decals for Penn Central boxcars so we'll have to stick with the predecorated model if you want a PC.
After you have stripped the paint off a predecorated Western Pacific model--its psychologically easier for me to strip a predecorated model other than that which I'm going to model--chisel off the thick foot stirrups from the model, then sand the bottom edge of the shell smooth. I prefer A-Line's #29200 Style "A" stirrups, but Details Associates #6417 Straight Bottom Stirrups could also be used.
If you have the old LL model, you will need to replace the underframe with Details West #183 50' Evans Cushioned Underframe, which literally drops into place. If you have the Proto1000 version, you can still use the DW part or keep the underframe LL supplies--the choice is yours depending on how much more you want to spend for one car.
The DW part come with a floor piece and a plastic underframe. Glue the floor into the shell. Then notch the sides of the draft gear box on the underframe to match the coupler box for Kadee #8 couplers, allowing the couplers to drop right into place. Glue the underframe to the floor. Since the coupler pockets on the Conrail prototype are painted the same color as the body, no masking will be needed during painting.
You can either paint and decal the model now, which will give you a decent X72 model, or you can use a #17 Exacto chisel blade and carefully remove the cast on ladders. Once removed, sand smooth progressing from fine sanding to wet sanding until all scars are removed. Add Details West #169 4-Rung Ladders. I dislike adding airhoses and brake rigging to my models since the parts tend to brake off too easily for my tastes--plus I have an 8 year old son who like to look at my models. So this is where I always end. But you may add these parts if you so desire.
All that is left if to paint the model using your favorite brand of oxide red. I prefer using PolyScale paints, since I can no longer handle the fumes from lacquer paints. Add several drops of white or brown to the paint to give the car the look you desire. Rolling stock is never painted the same shade even when fresh from the shops, plus the paint fades with wear.
The decals you use will depend on the scheme you choose to model. For modeling Conrail, use Microscale 87-862 Conrail Quality Freight Cars, which has logos for Quality as well as the standard, smaller wheels-rails logo on most of the CR X72's. You will have to cut and splice to get the proper numbers for any Conrail X72 using this sheet. For cars after 1986, use Microscale's MC-4126 Consolidated Lube Plates. You'll also need Microscale 87-193 Data W/Inspection Dots.
There was at least one X72 painted blue, CR 269879. A photo of it is in the "Here Comes Conrail" article in the October 1976 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman. I haven't thought about how to model this yet, but I surely will one of these days!
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